And one fine day it happened. Just like that.
The long delayed, much anticipated trip to Musandam, located in northern Oman. On an impulse.
Famous as the Middle Eastern version of the Norwegian fjords, Musandam is characterised by mountains that rise straight out of the sea. It's only the extremely skilled or the foolhardy who would attempt to drive through that region late in the evening. I decided to classify myself as the former. Maybe the full moon had a hand in the decision.
Famous as the Middle Eastern version of the Norwegian fjords, Musandam is characterised by mountains that rise straight out of the sea. It's only the extremely skilled or the foolhardy who would attempt to drive through that region late in the evening. I decided to classify myself as the former. Maybe the full moon had a hand in the decision.
It was about 9pm. I had dropped off a friend off at Ras al Khaimah (one of UAE’s northern emirates bordering Oman) and was driving back to Dubai. Suddenly, it struck me that the border was less than 50kms away. And beyond that was Musandam.
It was a 'now or never' moment.
The u-turn I took would have made Hollywood proud. Bon Jovi had just finished the acoustic version of 'destination anywhere' when the UAE border loomed ahead. Thankfully, I had carried my passport (I somehow can anticipate my impulses).
The UAE border guards found it a bit funny that I was travelling alone. I muttered something about finding myself. They tried to be helpful...in their words..."drive safe...road going up and up...and down and down". One of them helpfully added "if lost way, drive straight, and stay at Golden Tulip". The last mentioned name was a familiar name. It was a resort frequented by either the extremely skilled or the foolhardy.
As I crossed over to the Omani side and got my passport stamped by a taciturn Omani official...I realized that I intend to drive up steep mountains with the sea far below on one side in almost pitch dark conditions (there were street lamps...but they were predictably absent just when one sees signs like...steep descent and steep ascent...)
But the roads were in perfect condition. All I had to is stay in my lane and drive like Woody Allen on anti-depressants. Which I did. What I didn't account for is that it's a two way lane. Drivers obviously harbour under the impression that it's a potential F1 race track. So as I was making my steady ascents and descents, I saw blurs whizzing past accompanied by cheerful shouts. At that point I would have settled for a strong shot of vodka to steady the tic in my left eye, but being a strict 'Thums Up on the rocks' guy...just settled for gulping down my heart. Repeatedly.
After one particular steep climb, I found myself on some sort of a plateau. Sensing an opportunity to stretch my limbs (steadying the nerves came a close second), I pulled over to the side of the road. I switched off the engine, stepped out gingerly and found myself in a sort of Neverland minus Peter Pan and the rest of his ilk.
Almost felt like Columbus.
The stillness was punctuated at regular intervals by the waves crashing against the rocks with casual indifference. Walking a little further, I could see lights far below. Staring hard, I could see the lights form the words 'Golden Tulip'.
With a spring in my step, I retraced my steps back to my car. The twists and turns of my descent would have given a major complex to a Le Carre plot. Soon I could see the lights of Golden Tulip resort drawing near. The road now lit up by halogen street lamps creating their own patterns on the craggy mountain faces. Hauntingly beautiful.
Golden Tulip's lights looked very welcoming. I glided into the parking lot without much ado. I was greeted by the ever smiling Mr. Issa, Manager (Reception). Mr. Issa looked a bit like Snape (remember Potter's philosopher’s stone) except he looked like he does unspeakable things to pretty French maids (and they like it). I was informed that they did have a room available. Except that I've to pay through my olfactory glands. Which wasn't exactly part of the plan. But then, here I was in a foreign country and had no idea where the next bend will lead me to. So, in spite of having a tent in my car, I decided that I’ll opt for the room. And with that came the realization that I am becoming well...old. In my heydays, I’ve slept in a truck, in a cave, in a... ...you get the drift.
With a spring in my step, I retraced my steps back to my car. The twists and turns of my descent would have given a major complex to a Le Carre plot. Soon I could see the lights of Golden Tulip resort drawing near. The road now lit up by halogen street lamps creating their own patterns on the craggy mountain faces. Hauntingly beautiful.
Golden Tulip's lights looked very welcoming. I glided into the parking lot without much ado. I was greeted by the ever smiling Mr. Issa, Manager (Reception). Mr. Issa looked a bit like Snape (remember Potter's philosopher’s stone) except he looked like he does unspeakable things to pretty French maids (and they like it). I was informed that they did have a room available. Except that I've to pay through my olfactory glands. Which wasn't exactly part of the plan. But then, here I was in a foreign country and had no idea where the next bend will lead me to. So, in spite of having a tent in my car, I decided that I’ll opt for the room. And with that came the realization that I am becoming well...old. In my heydays, I’ve slept in a truck, in a cave, in a... ...you get the drift.
Next morning, I woke up to a view that more than made up for the unsightly dent in my savings. It was worth every omani rial. An azure sea stretched out endlessly. Holding a cup of piping hot earl grey, I imagined I could see the other end, the coast of Zanzibar.Checked out of the hotel at 8:30am after fortifying myself with breakfast. Complimentary bacon, baked beans, scrambled eggs and toast never tasted better.
The good thing about having no plan is that I covered 140kms of coastline in about 10 hours. Stopped wherever I wanted to, and after some quiet moments of introspection, start again. Twisty mountain roads, mountain goats, lonely boats, deserted beaches, benign mountains and a certain Mr. Knopfler keeping me company.
As the sun finally decided to call it a day and disappeared to its secret location somewhere over the horizon, a deep sense of calm came over me. After a last lingering look, I changed gears and headed towards city lights.
As the sun finally decided to call it a day and disappeared to its secret location somewhere over the horizon, a deep sense of calm came over me. After a last lingering look, I changed gears and headed towards city lights.
It's true. Giving in to sudden impulses can be quite liberating.